Wed love to hear eyewitness Gary Falk, 42, was guiding a group of clients down from an ascent of the park's highest peak when he fell. Climbing guide services and other businesses that employ workers in the backcountry might not all be aware that OSHA has standards they are required to meet, said Alex Kosseff, executive director of the American Mountain Guides Association. "As far as we can see, he was not working for Exum," Turner said of the excursion. There was an error and we couldn't process your subscription. Teewinot is his ode to forty years in the mountains that he loves. Falk was in his 113. 7/15/2013. Theres going to be things that we can do in the future that will reduce our risk. Based in the Wasatch Range near Salt Lake and Park City since 1993, Utah Mountain Adventures (UMA) is the premier full-spectrum, year-round guide service in Utah. Together they established the Petzoldt-Exum School of American Mountaineering. He had a Nobel Prize-winning smile and an infectious love of whatever he was doing. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Exum is an authorized concession of the National Park Service and a nondiscriminatory permittee of multiple US Forest Service districts. He is a veteran Wyoming reporter and editor with more than 35 years of experience in Wyoming. About the Jackson Hole News and Guide Staff. But OSHA standards dont eliminate all risk. But because of a last-minute re-arrangement of climbing teams, Falk found himself one ATC short. Falk, 42, died in a fall while descending from the peak of the 13,775-foot Grand Teton on July 23, with young clients and a chaperone from a group called City Kids. Exum Mountain Guides, a concessioner with Grand Teton National Park, has been guiding in the park for over 80 years. Gardner left the valley floor Saturday with about four other guides and a group of clients, including youths from Wilderness Ventures. Thats why climbing with protection is so popular. OSHAs goals are to spread word about new safety information learned from accidents. A Park Service helicopter dropped two rangers into the area, who hiked to the victim and pulled his body out using a long line a 150-foot line attached to the helicopter. Use the Report link on each Share with us. Soon after, they descended into the gully west of the route to find Gardner dead. 2023 Cable News Network. Fellow guide Hans Johnstone said his partner was joyous. Dont knowingly lie about anyone or A Jackson Hole climbing guide service paid a $7,350 fine for safety violations after state officials investigated the 2016 death of a guide who fell from the Grand Teton. An Exum mountain guide perished Saturday in Grand Teton National Park while leading a group of clients down the Grand Teton after completing a successful summit bid. WyoFile stands behind everything we publish and expects commenters to do the same. Other than this, we will not share any contact information that you give to us. She is also one of only five female guides at North America's oldest guiding company. As the oldest guide service in North America, Exum has guided in the Tetons for over 90 years. He said it was a privilege to climb the peak. Sign up to receive a weekly e-newsletter with a spotlight on Jackson Hole's crime, justice and emergency news from theJackson Hole News&Guide. The investigation highlights a growing awareness among businesses in the outdoor recreation industry that they are subject to rules seeking to ensure safety even in unconventional workplaces. The sound came from the direction of the Grand, but Santelices said he could see no rocks coming out of the Stettner Couloir, a source for rockfall. Exum also agreed to document training about how to avoid contact with biological hazards, such as blood. Guides and clients descended from the camp on their own power. On July 23rd, 2016 Gary Falk fell to his death during the down climb of a guided trip on the Grand Teton. Half inch tubular webbing is 9/16 inch wide, but barely 1/8 inch thick. 0. Even if that equipment had been inspected, that may not have had any bearing on this incident, he said. rather than denigrating someone with an opposing view. See the article in its original context from. Theres a big void now that hes gone.. accounts or history behind an article. He was a spiritual beacon for all who knew him, a seeker who readily shared the fruits of his search with others. The knot is strong if the tails are long enough, Patridge said. Sign up to receive a weekly e-newsletter with a selection of inspiring stories about the faces and places of Jackson Hole from theJackson Hole News&Guide. The stomach-churning, While the Wasatch is seeing historic snowfall records forcing resort closures due to avalanche danger, many parts of the Alps are not off to a good start to the winter. Use your real name: Anonymous commenting is not Sign up to receive a weekly e-newsletter with a selection of outdoors, sports and recreation news from theJackson Hole News&Guide. Professional climbers would find the moves routine rather than exhausting, albeit without room for error for a solo climber. George was soloing the Lower Exum Ridge, a climb he knew well. But the rope and ATC got stuck in a crack on the way up. Indeed, the word love was common in his speech, the idea intimate to his mind, its products present in his actions. There were three deaths involving the climbing concessionaires in the last three years. Use the Report link on each But light from a set of headlamps appeared on the descent route from the peak and those in the camp figured it was Gardner, perhaps aiding a late party down. Sign up to receive a weekly e-newsletter with a selection of environmental news from theJackson Hole News&Guide. Get up-to-the-minute news sent straight to your device. "He was someone who was passionate about being the best teacher and guide he could be," Santelices said, "especially with kids.". Like Thoreau and Muir, Turner has contemplated the essential nature of a landscape. Building on his passion for the outdoors, he climbed extensively in both the Rockies and the Alps. Some just hold on to the belay rope. The guide service has grown since those early years, but we still hire guides who are able to teach and inspire others. Throughout those years, a countless number of individuals from age 8 80 have climbed with us. They can, for example, be untied, threaded through bolts or around trees, and re-tied quickly without using up much sling length in the knot itself. Terms of Use WyoFile aims to provide you with the tools to make informed decisions by producing independent, unbiased reporting that is free and accessible to all. He was immediately projected outward and fell to his death, the park report said. Sign up to receive a daily e-newsletter with a selection of local, state and regional news headlines from theJackson Hole Daily. Grand Teton climbing rangers examined Falks gear after they retrieved his body and found the 98-inch webbing still attached to the guides harness with a hitch knot. Of course most guides are not trying to free a stuck rope. Federal laws require employers to ensure their workers in hazardous places have protective gear that meets certain standards, Ysebaert said. Please note: Online comments may also run in our print The takeaway is to inspect your knots on a regular basis and use plenty of tail. This was a guides error. ", The guide was beyond competent, Turner said, calling him a "beautiful climber.". He had climbed the route many times. the ledge. 2023 Exum Mountain Guides - All Rights Reserved. Kate had volunteered to be a mock client. He completed the Grand Traverse (10 Teton peaks) in half a day and made a 14-hour ascent of the Nose of El Capitan, Yosemite. 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But because of a last-minute re-arrangement of climbing teams, the guide found himself short one belay device. But water knots inspected in June may go through hundreds of loading/unloading cycles by the end of the summer guiding season in September. When the professionals cant keep you safe doing the basics, maybe theres a problem that people need to stop and evaluate. That day, Zahan, an Exum Mountain Guide known as Z, and Nat Patridge, president of Exum and also a guide, skinned three miles across an ice-covered Jackson Lake, then climbed 5,000 vertical feet to the top of one . You knew it would be a success, Harlan says, adding, Safety was of utmost By one account, he made more trips up the Grand for Exum last year than any other guide. Get an email notification whenever someone contributes to the discussion. You may cancel your membership at anytime, but no refunds will be issued for payments already made. George was soloing the Lower Exum Ridge, a climb he knew well. We certainly will be looking at what happened here and working to determine if we need to share the information with guide services around the country about standards like this.. Search reviews. In the evening of July 19th, Exum Mountain Guides lost our beloved friend and fellow guide, George Gardner. We rely on readers like you to keep our reporters in the field unearthing the stories that matter to you. told the Jackson Hole Daily the company employs between 60 and 80 guides, and on any given day in July or August could have three to four God bless his family and co-workers, this is a terrible loss for the community and I offer my sincere condolences. Your purchase was successful, and you are now logged in. racist or sexually-oriented language. The Exum Mountain Guide company says Gary Falk, 42, was leading a group down from a successful ascent of . Visit the Exum website for more information. Recreation and outdoor businesses in Teton County and other resort areas present unconventional challenges when it comes to ensuring safe workplaces, John Ysebaert said. Notifications from this discussion will be disabled. Fellow guide Hans Johnstone said his partner was joyous. *Individual commenters are limited to three comments per story, including replies. Contact him at angus@wyofile.com or (307) Subscribe to our free newsletter and get the latest stories straight to your inbox every Tuesday. After guiding and teaching for 80 years, Exum Mountain Guides enjoys an unmatched reputation for excellence. Sign up to receive a daily e-newsletter with a selection of local, state and regional news headlines from theJackson Hole Daily. They believed that clients should learn the skills necessary to participate actively while climbing to the summits of the high Teton peaks. Park officials said the death is being investigated. A group descends the Grand Teton in changing climactic conditions. Falk leaves behind a wife and two young sons. Your account has been registered, and you are now logged in. That was not employer negligence., Double-checking knots throughout the season wont be Exums task, the administrator said. Exum is an authorized concession of the National Park Service and a nondiscriminatory permittee of multiple US Forest Service districts. He was one of the most smiley guys you ever saw.. "We have no idea why he fell," Turner said. None of the citations related directly to Gary and the way Gary fell, said Nat Patridge, president of Exum Mountain Guides. I know that it was a work in progress, on the Grand after reaching the summit with his clients, Falk leaned away from the anchor while trying to free [a] wedged rappel device, which he Exum Mountain. Falk, 42, died in a fall from the 13,775-foot Grand Teton on July 23, when he was descending the peak with young clients from a group called City Kids. Gary was a diligent guide, always the consummate professional," Patridge said. Cyndi Hargis, one of Exum's owners, told the Jackson Hole Daily the company employs between 60 and 80 guides, and on any given day in July or August could have three to four guides with clients up on the Grand. Ed. Many of the employers in Teton County come across hazards that are more unpredictable, than those found in more traditional work settings, Ysebaert said. Angus,, saving lives with critical thought and factual information- keep up the good work. The sound came from the direction of the Grand, but Santelices said he could see no rocks coming out of the Stettner Couloir, a source for rockfall. Please contact the developer of this form processor to improve this message. Choose wisely! A second citation said Exum did not have a written plan to limit guides exposure to bloodborne pathogens should they render first aid. However double-checking knots throughout the season wont be Exums task, Ysebaert said. Chuck Pratt. All Exum operations were cancelled for Sunday in honor of Falk, the News & Guide reports. Exum Mountain Guides began selling 1999 trips up the Grand Teton in January and were sold out by mid-February. Falk fell approximately 2,400 feet from the Owen-Spalding Rappel into Valhalla Canyon, near the Black Ice Couloir. Sign up to receive local, breaking news alerts as they become available. Within the decade, she hopes to earn full certification by the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associationsan achievement fewer than 15 . Smaine was in Japan alongside photographer Grant Gunderson and fellow pro skier Adam for a marketing trip and had wrapped shooting for the day when him and his partners went to ski a few personal laps, running into several other parties in the zone including a group of Austrian skiers and a group of Canadian mountain guides, Teton Gravity Research Its not practical for [Exum] to inspect it each and every time.. But in 1981 he climbed Grand Teton to observe the 50th anniversary of scaling his ridge. [E]vidence and witness statements suggest that he was using a 98 inch section of 9/16 [inch] blue tubular webbing tied in a loop with a water knot to tether himself to the anchor and that the knot came untied during his attempts to free the stuck rappel device, the report said. The Park Service recovered Falks body that morning via a helicopter long line. Backing the knot up ensures that there is sufficient tail. He always wanted to maximize fun. Sign up to receive a weekly e-newsletter with a selection of economic and business news from theJackson Hole News&Guide. Dont. Your effort and contribution in providing this feedback is much In the event of an injury, we will share any medical information you have provided with appropriate medical personnel providing care. Your e-mail address will be used to confirm your account. but at the time of his death, life was feeling pretty complete and satisfying. Theres going to be things that we can do in the future that will reduce our risk.. Arnold S. Houston, TX. Falk leaves behind his wife, Kate, and two young sons, Anders, 4, and Donovan, 9 months. The exact circumstances of Gardners fall may remain a mystery, Turner said. To share photos Early in the morning, guides on the Lower Exum called Turner to report seeing a body below. His body was carried from Valhalla Canyon via long line recovery. anything. Sign up to receive a weekly e-newsletter with a selection of healthcare and wellness news from theJackson Hole News&Guide. Be proactive. Hailing from Ouray, Colorado, the deceased was a trusted colleague and family man, leaving behind a wife and two little boys. An email message containing instructions on how to reset your password has been sent to the e-mail address listed on your account. Falk, a native of Ouray, Colo., has been working for Exum for 12 years. down, and the Teton Interagency Dispatch was notified around 10:30 a.m. Not an excuse but just facts. But also its clear, too, that what we need is a good inspection program of all the gear that the guides are using. Needless to say, were all devastated, Turner said Sunday from Grand Teton National Park. Investigators found photographs that showed Falks water knot, in which one tail is visible and is of adequate length but the knot is not tightened. They described activities before the accident during which the tether would have been weighted, which couldve affected the security of the knot. One of the most prolific Exum mountain guides died Saturday evening while solo climbing a route on the 13,770-foot Grand Teton. ''Glenn's idea was that people ought to be responsible,'' Mr. Williamson said. The guide was highly certified, highly trained in the tying of that knot, Ysebaert said. Please turn off your CAPS LOCK. Programs include backcountry skiing, split-snowboarding, rock climbing, ice climbing, avalanche instruction, summer and winter mountaineering, trekking (hiking and snowshoeing) and canyoneering skills. * Provide your full name no pseudonyms. In fact, the famed Les Gets bike park - just a few valleys over from the Mont Blanc Massif - reopened its lifts to mountain bikers due to a lack of snow. George was an Exum guide for 17 years. Its not practical for [Exum] to inspect it each and every time., Businesses that employ workers in the backcountry might not all be aware that OSHA has standards they are required to meet, said Alex Kosseff, executive director of the American Mountain Guides Association. The server responded with {{status_text}} (code {{status_code}}). Beyond that, he was just an amazing individual, friend, husband and father, Patridge said. Falk was attached to the anchor slings with a four-foot tether and probably leaning out when his knot failed, rangers believe. Patridge agreed that regular knot inspection is a guides responsibility. Make a donation today and help us keep digging. Man I appreciate the depth of this report. Turner said Sunday from Grand Teton Gary falk fell approximately 2,400 feet from the Owen-Spalding into! A.M. not an excuse but just facts, Anders, 4, and you are now logged.. He fell, '' Patridge said and fell to his death during the exum mountain guides death. 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Mr. Williamson said meets certain standards, Ysebaert said the exact circumstances of Gardners fall may a! Fell to his death during the down climb of a last-minute re-arrangement of climbing teams, found! Selling 1999 trips up the good work developer of this form processor to improve this message leaning out when knot! Was successful, and website in this browser for the outdoors, he was immediately outward! Was leading a group down from a successful ascent of his speech, the guide Service has since. New safety information learned from accidents in his speech, the Park Service Falks. Learn the skills necessary to participate actively while climbing to the e-mail address listed on your has...